A New Addition to the Jewish Cookbook Shelf: Introducing “Tlaim”

By Rabbi Healy Slakman

On a cold, dark December night in Brooklyn in 2022, I found myself running all over town, from grocery store to grocery store, restaurant to restaurant, searching for an ingredient I never could have predicted I would urgently need: nopales—fresh cactus paddles. I had a pot of nopales chicken soup to make, and friends coming over to taste and be warmed by a stranger’s family recipe.

That winter, and periodically over the years that followed, I found myself testing recipes and participating in the creation of a grassroots community cookbook that celebrates the ethnic and racial diversity of the Jewish people. This year, I am excited to share that the Tlaim Patchwork Cookbook, gathered and edited by Alana Chandler, is finally finished and available. Tlaim takes its name from the Hebrew word for “patchwork,” reflecting the more than 80 recipes and stories woven together from Jewish communities around the world. Through dishes rooted in family memory, migration, holiday practice, and everyday life, each recipe serves not only as a set of instructions, but as a doorway into the lived experiences, histories, and traditions of its contributor.

I have a passion for cookbooks, and I see Jewish cookbooks as living cultural artifacts—a genre of Jewish literature in their own right. When studied, they tell the ever-evolving story of Jewish identity: where we have lived, what we have carried with us, how we have adapted, and how we have nurtured and sustained one generation to the next. They reveal how Jewish communities have been shaped by surrounding cultures while also preserving particular traditions, tastes, and practices—and what those choices say about what we value. And recipes have a remarkable ability to make visible histories and identities that dominant narratives too often obscure.

The Tlaim does just this: uplifts recipes, stories, and traditions of Jews from all kinds of backgrounds whose lived experiences have always been—and continue to be—an integral part of the Jewish story. There is no single “Jews of Color” identity contained within these pages. Each recipe reflects radically different backgrounds, histories, cultures, and relationships to Jewishness. So many of the contributors hold multiple identities at once—Jewish and something else, and often many something elses. And the recipes are all the more delicious, celebratory, and deep as ingredients, traditions, and practices from different parts of a person’s identity come together in a single dish.

In this sense, the recipes tell not only the stories of historically underrepresented Jewish identities, but a much larger Jewish story. Jewish life has never been culturally singular. We have always crossed borders, adapted traditions, shifted practices, and absorbed new flavors. Our communities, stories, and identities are richer for it.

I hope you’ll acquire a copy of the cookbook and make it part of your own kitchen—stain its pages with ingredients, scribble your adaptations in the margins, and add another layer to the living story these recipes carry. You can purchase a printed copy or download a free virtual copy and begin cooking from there! Find recipes I contributed, including the nopales chicken soup, Sambusak bel Jeben, Yusheng with Lox, Japanese charoset, and many more.

May the recipes and stories in this book inspire us to recognize, uplift, and celebrate the ethnic and racial diversity of Jewish people—and to see the Jewish story in all of its dynamic fullness. I hope you will try some and let me know which ones you like!

Tunisian Croquettes (Banatage)

Banatage are deep fried, breaded, stuffed, croquette-esque potato balls that epitomize North African comfort food. While they are usually filled with meat, my version calls for a spiced mushroom mixture. You can also omit the mushroom mixture and experiment with the usual vegetarian substitution of chopped hard boiled eggs!

Growing up, I visited my grandmother every summer. I remember talking about her banatage on the plane ride over, wondering if she would make them– secretly knowing very well that she would. She always did, even though they are traditionally prepared on Passover, because she wanted to treat us and celebrate the special occasion of our visit, even if it meant standing over the stove for hours, in the 100 degree heat of July in Ramle, with no air-conditioning, deep frying.

Yields about 18 banatage

Ingredients:

Potato Exterior:

5 potatoes

2 tablespoons oil

1 teaspoon consommé

1 teaspoon turmeric

Salt and pepper to taste

 

Mushroom Filling:

1-2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, diced

1 tsp vinegar

1 tsp sugar

16 oz mushrooms, finely chopped

1 tsp paprika

1 tablespoon consommé

1 bunch of parsley, finely chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

 

Frying:

Matzo meal*

3 eggs

Vegetable oil

 

Procedure:

Preparing ingredients

  1. Bring salted water to a boil
  2. Boil 5 potatoes with skin on for 30-40 min. Potatoes should be very soft
  3. Remove from water. While potatoes are still warm, remove skin. Add oil, consommé, turmeric, salt and pepper to potatoes. Smash into a smooth, uniform mixture
  4. Place in the fridge and allow to cool completely. Potato mixture will be easier to manage cold
  5. While potatoes are boiling, prepare mushroom mixture
  6. Sauté onions in oil, adding sugar and vinegar before they have become translucent
  7. Add chopped mushrooms, paprika, consommé, and salt
  8. Cook mushrooms on a medium high flame, stirring semi regularly. The mushrooms will release liquid as they cook. Continue cooking mushrooms until the liquid has evaporated completely
  9. When the liquid is about 50% evaporated, add chopped parsley
  10. Add salt and pepper to taste
  11. Place mushroom mixture in fridge and allow to completely cool

Assembly and Frying:

  1. On a medium flame, heat vegetable oil in a pot or deep pan
  2. To prepare for frying, beat eggs in one small bowl, and fill a second bowl with matzo meal. Remove potato and mushroom mixtures from fridge and position them near the eggs and matzo meal
  3. Scoop about a golf-sized ball of potato mixture into palm of hand. Flatten the ball, and scoop some mushroom mixture into the middle. Start creating the banatage by gently closing palm of hand, wrapping potato mixture around mushrooms, and carefully forming into a cylinder-like sphere (see photo for shape). Ensure that mushroom mixture is totally concealed. Because the potato mixture can be sticky and difficult to manage, I suggest lightly coating hands with vegetable oil to prevent sticking
  4. One at a time, submerge banatage first in egg and then in matzo meal, ensuring uniform and consistent coverage
  5. Place the banatage in oil and fry for 3-4 min on each side, or until the banatage becomes golden brown and crispy. Avoid frying more than 3-4 banatage at a time because overcrowding will impact the fry
  6. Remove from oil and place on a paper towel to cool, sprinkling with additional salt immediately
  7. Serve hot or at room temperature

*Banatage can be cooked all year long. If it’s not Passover, I suggest coating with all purpose flour instead of matzo meal


This article originally appeared in the Sep/Oct/Nov 2026 issue of the Vine.